

Egypt One of the earliest and most celebrated aromatic formulas was a mixture of sixteen aromatics, known as kyphi. We cannot be sure of the exact ingredients, but most experts agree that it contained myrrh, juniper, cinnamon, spikenard, frankincense, saffron and cassia, amongst others. It must have been very popular; as well as being used in temples, kyphi was burned in the house to make it smell sweet and used as a perfume for the body and clothes (later used as a liquid perfume by both Greeks and Romans). Kyphi was also employed as a medicine. According to Plutarch, a Greek historian, "Its aromatic substances lull to sleep, allay anxieties and brighten dreams. It is made of things that delight most in the night", making it the original 'opium of the masses'. When one of the sealed flasks discovered when the tomb of Tutankhamum was opened in 1922, it contained an unguent that, after 3300 years, still had a perceptible odour. Analysis revealed the presence of frankincense and spikenard. Perhaps this is the only surviving bottle of the world's first perfume. China A significant piece of work, dated at around 2650 BC, is the Yellow Emperor's Classic of Internal Medicine, which contains references to massage as well as the basis for acupuncture. However, the oldest surviving medical text in China is Shen Nung's Herbal, which is dated at around 2700BC, which contains information on 365 plants. India
Hippocrates lived some 500 years before Dioscorides, about 2500 years ago. In his Aphorisms, we find a rare reference to aromatics: "Aromatic baths are useful in the treatment of female disorders". He was also keen on massage: "The physician must be experienced in many things, but assuredly in rubbing... for rubbing can bind a joint that is too loose, and loosen a joint that is too rigid". Although Hippocrates is often referred to as the father of medicine, it would be more fitting to dub him the father of holistic medicine. Undoubtedly, it was the Romans who celebrated aromatic materials with sheer decadence. They bathed with them several times a day, whilst massage also played a large part in the culture. Oils were used to scent the hair, body and even the bed. The most beautiful oils available were blended by highly skilled perfumers, creating celebrated fragrances that were broken down into three categories: 'ladysmata' (a solid unguent), 'stymmata' (a scented oil) and 'diapasmata' (a powdered perfume). There are many Biblical references to aromatics. At the birth of Jesus, frankincense and myrrh were offered, whilst at the last supper Mary Magdalene anointed Jesus's feet with "much costly Spikenard and the smell filled the house". The Middle East Avicenna sophisticated and refined the process of extracting pure essential and it is said that his first successful distillations were made from rosa centifolia. This development led to an even greater popularity for rose water and for the 'perfumes of Araby'. The Arabs made great advances in chemistry at around this time, and also discovered how to make alcohol. With both alcohol and essential oils, the production of perfumes without a heavy oily base became possible for the first time. As well as roses, violets, lilies, narcissi and lotus flowers were used in this new perfumery. Interest in the therapeutic applications of essential oils was relatively small, but aromatherapy as we know it today was quietly being born. Avicenna, like Hippocrates and Dioscorides, was one of the great physicians of his time. In the Materia Medica section of his book, the Canon of Medicine, he refers to many essential oils, including cinnamon, coriander, clove, aniseed, dill, chamomile, juniper and peppermint. Although not a great believer in massage, Avicenna did recommend it for some conditions: to prepare the body for exercise, to increase or decrease body weight, to give tone to the body, and for the infants and very old.
By the 18th century, big country houses in Europe often had their own 'still room' where the 'still room maid' distilled aromatic oils and waters from plants grown on the estate, and then used them in fragrances, toiletries, medicines and even foods. The fragrances and toiletries also had beneficial properties ascribed to them. In some ways the still room maid was an early European version of an aromatherapist. During the nineteenth century, the 'doctor's bag' contained his standard remedies, including a few essential oils; although these were used less and less during the second part of the century. However, somebody drew attention to the low incidence of tuberculosis in the flower growing districts of France, particularly in the south. It was also noted that most of the workers who processed the fragrant herbs and flowers remained quite free from respiratory diseases. This led, in 1887, to the first recorded laboratory test on the antibacterial properties of essential oils. In the twentieth century, it was a French cosmetic chemist, René-Maurice Gattefossé, who coined the term 'aromatherapy' in 1937. He discovered the effectiveness of lavender oil on burns, after injuring his hand in a small laboratory explosion and subsequently treating it with the oil. The Second World War brought the progress of aromatherapy to a standstill, with one notable exception. A certain Dr Jean Valnet, greatly influenced by the work of Gattefossé, used essential oils as antiseptics in the treatment of war wounds. After the war he continued using oils in his capacity as a doctor and, in 1964, published Aromathérapie (now available in English). There are several establishments in France where medical doctors can learn aromatherapy, and some 1500 general practitioners now prescribe essential oils. It was in 1977 that Robert Tisserand wrote the first book in English on the subject - The Art of Aromatherapy. This best selling book, now translated into 11 languages and sold all over the world, has been referred to as "standard reference work since it was published". He has also written Aromatherapy For Everyone (1987) and Essential Oil Safety with Tony Balacs (1995); the latter being the first definitive reference guide for the aromatherapy industry on the safe use and application of over 300 essential oils. Robert is widely acknowledged as a modern day aromatherapy pioneer, paving the way for education in the subject and the growing understanding over the past 30 years of how aromatherapy can benefit our health and wellbeing. |